Deckman’s is back and ready to keep celebrating Baja Cuisine.
By Erick Falcón | Todos Santos
You can never put ‘new’ and ’normal’ in a single phrase when it comes to Drew Deckman. Since 2012, the celebrated chef of Deckman’s en el Mogor has shifted form and function of all things related to his gastronomic venture in Valle de Guadalupe to adjust to change without violating the essence of his culinary dogma: fresh, sustainable ingredient-driven cuisine.
Since the first table was served in 2012, evolution has changed everything: from the menu (now QR code-based–“never again telling people we are out of something again!”–), to its physical straw-based structure (now with open walls), its sanitary filters & safety protocols (federally and state-regulated) and two daily shifts (Brunch from 11-3 pm; dinner 5-9 pm). Yet the sunsets, the view of the vineyards, the feeling of the wild, the great Baja Cuisine,
the oysters, the wine… still there.
“We had 4 months to reconceive the restaurant, to reset, re-think, re-plan everything for our eight birthday,” says Deckman, while he scribbles a note about getting serious about how to strategically plant their gardens to supply the restaurants. Always the tinkerer.
Deckman’s reopened its doors in July, and its sister restaurant, Baja Omakase, opened again later that month, both of them only by reservation. The open spaces and lesser visitors to the region gives it the feel of a time when Valle was much less crowded, before Drew’s seasonal escapades became one of Baja’s foremost culinary projects.
If Deckman’s wasn’t a reason enough to travel south of the border, the first omakase sushi bar settled in front of a vineyard field should convice you of a full weekend stay in Ensenada to indulge in the cuisine of two world-class restaurants under one (imagined) roof. Baja Omakase, founded in partnership with Japanese master sushi chef Toshiaki Tsutada, is a one-of-a-kind experience with a 12-course omakase menu based on local, responsible and fresh seasonal ingredients, one you can’t miss.
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‘Nuevo’ y ‘normal’ no son dos palabras que puedas usar en una oración cuando se trata del chef Drew Deckman. Desde 2012, el célebre chef de Deckman‘s en el Mogor ha modificado toda forma y función de su aventura culinaria en el Valle de Guadalupe para ajustarse a los vintos de cambio sin perder la esencia de su dogma culinario: la cocina que tiene como eje el ingrediente sustentable y obtenido en forma responsable.
Desde que se sirvió a la primer mesa en 2012, el restaurante ha evolucionado en todos los aspectos: desde el menú (ahora con código QR), la estructura física (vuelven el espacio al aire libre), los protocolos de sanidad (se sigue el protocolo sanitario oficial de las autoridades mexicanas) y dos horarios de servicio sólo bajo reservación (brunch de 11 a 3 de la tarde y la cena de 5 a 9 de la noche). No obstante, los atardeceres, la vista de los viñedos, la sensación de libertad, la deliciosa cocina de Baja, los ostiones, el vino…. todo sigue ahí.
“Tuvimos cuatro meses para repensar el restaurante, para volver a empezar, a planear de nuevo todo para nuestro octavo año en servicio,” dice Drew Deckman mientras garabatea un recado sobre como replantar su huerto en una forma más estratégica para el restaurante.
A ello se suma la reapertura de Baja Omakase, fundado con asociación con el chef maestro en sushi Toshiaki Tsutada, un concepto omakase con un menú de 12 tiempos a base de ingredientes sustentables y de consumo responsable (no hallarás salmón aquí) que es una experiencia imperdible para los amantes de la buena gastronomía.
