{"id":3112,"date":"2015-07-30T18:34:54","date_gmt":"2015-07-30T18:34:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/rtodos-santos.mx\/?p=3112"},"modified":"2015-07-30T18:34:54","modified_gmt":"2015-07-30T18:34:54","slug":"456-baja-cuisine-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.rtodos-santos.mx\/?p=3112","title":{"rendered":"The evolution of Baja Cuisine: 5 chefs, 5 visions"},"content":{"rendered":"

Five leading Baja chefs spell out the essence of Baja Cuisine for us.<\/em><\/p>\n

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by Erick Falc\u00f3n<\/strong><\/span> | Todos Santos<\/em><\/p>\n

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\"benitom\"\u00a0 \u00a0Despite a few years have passed since Baja Cuisine\u2019s rise to international culinary fame, few have an idea of how to define it.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0It is a young cuisine, of course, some say, unlike Oaxaca or Michoac\u00e1n’s millenary gastronomic traditions.\u00a0You may hear \u2018Baja Med\u2019 a lot in culinary festivals and magazines. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0But although the word does allude to this place\u2019s Mediterranean essence and climate, which makes wine, olive oil, seafood and other ingredients possible, some local chefs feel that defining Baja\u2019s regional cuisine just by its sheer European influence can be just a tad too limiting. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cBaja Med is a digestible, marketable term, but we can\u2019t forget that there\u2019s other influences from Asia and the regional cuisines of other states of Mexico, this has everything to do with immigration and how it has allowed Baja\u2019s cuisine to evolve,\u201d says Benito Molina, owner of Manzanilla restaurant<\/a> in Ensenada and considered to be one of the best Mexican chefs. <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Benito is aware that European influence in regional cuisine is crucial \u201c as this wouldn\u2019t be possible if it weren\u2019t for the wine and the scene that developed around it.\u201d Diego Hern\u00e1ndez Baquedano, chef of Coraz\u00f3n de Tierra<\/a>, agrees with Benito: Baja California has a young cuisine which responds to its culture and geography, but has a broad background, including, for example, the cuisine of fishing vessels & fishermen campsites around Baja\u2019s mainland and islands.<\/span><\/p>\n

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One cuisine, many cultures <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"diegohb\"\u00a0 \u00a0Attempting to define Baja Cuisine\u2019s essence requires a thorough look at its history and the impact of immigration, but the chefs interviewed reduce it to at least 3 main elements: agricultural and fishing activity, with an abundance of high quality products; winemaking and rustic, outdoor cooking techniques (the use of wood and fire) with Mexican, Asian and European culinary influence. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0It\u2019s hard to picture Baja Cuisine withouth French techniques introduced after 1947 by Virginia Geffroy, founder of El Rey Sol, the oldest active French restaurant in Mexico, nor can we conceive it without the use of chili powder, achiote and other Mexican spices. Baja chefs are also fond of sashimi-style slices of bluefin tuna, sea urchin and varios types of clams, but here they\u2019re called tiraditos. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Baja has 8 of the 10 most valuable seafood species in the global markets, including the spiny red lobster, abalone, sea cucumber and geoduck clam, as well as U.S. export-quality produce and 90% of all Mexican wines are produced in Ensenada. And Benito was among the first cooks to realize that this was a paradise for chefs.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0\"lang\" \u00a0As a student in New England Culinary Institute<\/a>, Benito learned his trade in places from France to Boston and Mexico City. But when he arrived in Baja to work for Santo Tom\u00e1s winery\u2019s restaurant in 1996, Benito soon realized there was some great stuff happening here. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cEnsenada oysters are the same quality you can find in Bretagne, thanks to the cold Pacific currents. Its taste is clean and cristalline, not creamy, with a touch of iodine, but not in excess. Being bred in cold waters makes them develop more fat than oysters from southern Mexico, and have more texture and flavor.\u201d <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Benito took years to convince vintners, farmers and fishermen to supply him of the great quality products that were 100% being expor- ted to the U.S., and so became a pioneer of Baja Cuisine. Other Mexican chefs soon followed him and started buying Ensenada fish, seafood, produce and wines, which you will definitely find in Mexico City\u2019s finest restaurants. <\/span><\/p>\n

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A cuisine based on pride and innovation<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0\"javier\" \u00a0Another Baja Cuisine pioneer you\u2019re probably guessing is Javier Plascencia Huerta<\/a>, Tijuana\u2019s most celebrated chef and one of the reasons that the border city became a fashionable tourist destination after years of its violence-related problems. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0For Javier, Baja Cuisine is a seasonal cuisine, a seafood-based cuisine, wood-fired country-style grills and a prominent mixture of Mediterranean, Oriental & Mexican culinary techniques. He was among the first to promote regional pride for Baja products, and he has continued to inspire younger chefs to make use of local wines, olive oil, fish and seafood, as well as reinventing his own cuisine in his signature restaurants, like Finca Altozano<\/em><\/a>, Misi\u00f3n 19<\/em><\/a> and the much-anticipated Bracero<\/em><\/a> in downtown San Diego. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Fire is a key element to his dishes, as smoked ingredients are a mainstay feature of Baja Cuisine. When asked about what he considers his signature dish, he recalls preparing a marvellous beef rib\u00a0grilled within fig tree leafs, which he feels is very representative of the aromas and the strong flavors of Baja and Mexican cuisine. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u201cIt was a dish that people really liked, we were in a Vendimia<\/em> event in the Liceaga winery, where there was a big fig tree, and we did this black mole with the figs, which went very well with the wines,\u201d says Plascencia. <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0The Tijuana-born chef does not exaggerate about the importance of fire and country-style cooking. Mexican and American archaoelogists have found over 100 coastal campsites, known as fogones, which are known to be the remains of fire pits where the ancient Yumano culture would cook their food over 1,500 years ago. Mexican researchers have found fragments of animal bones, shells, stone tools and what seems to be ancient barbeque pits scattered near these places, and are currently trying to identify what was the purpose of each kind of these fogones.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"fincaat\"
Photo: Courtesy Finca Altozano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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A celebration of Baja ingredients <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0\"drewd\" \u00a0It wouldn\u2019t be hard to assume that bajacalifornianos are very fond of grilling their ingredients, given all the taquer\u00edas you see around Baja\u2019s cities. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0But when it comes to regional haut\u00e9 cuisine, you can see there\u2019s a very norte\u00f1o-style trend of mixing land and sea ingredients, with delicious examples being tuetano with barrel-smoked octopus and white wine sauce, lobster with beans or percebes with beef tongue tiradito, like the one chef Drew Deckman is cooking just in front of us in his restaurant, Deckman’s at El Mogor<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Drew is a U.S.-born chef with quite an international resum\u00e9, including one Michelin star awarded in his previous stints in Europe and cooking for Hollywood A-list actors (think Mission Impossible<\/em>, yep), but it was Valle de Guadalupe that won Drew over, so he left his succesful restaurant in gringo-filled Cabo for the bohemian lifestyle El Valle offers. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cWhat\u2019s my definition of Baja Cuisine? Wow… You like to start with the hard questions… I think Baja\u2019s cuisine is a celebration of its ingredients, to me Baja lives from the sea, the wine, the incredible products you can can find here, which are some of the best in North America,\u201d says Drew.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"deckmanss\"<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Drew agrees with other chefs\u2019 opinion that, unlike the traditional prehispanic cuisines of Oaxaca and Michoac\u00e1n, Baja has a more heterogeneus mixture of cultural influences \u201cof everything from pirates and fishermen to ethnic groups from Russia, Switzerland, Japan, China and other Mexican states.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0It\u2019s no surprise then that you can find everything from Russian Molokans\u2019 XX century cuisine in the Samarin family restaurant in Guadalupe Valley, or iconic dishes like the Puerto Nuevo Lobster, the\u00a0Ensenada-style fish taco, a 1950\u2019s creation perfected by Zeferino Mancillas; nor can we forget do\u00f1a Sabina Bandera\u2019s clam and sea urchin tostadas or the Kumiai\u2019s use of acorns and others ingredients from the forests, as well as the innovative interpretations that today\u2019s chefs do, like Ryan Steyn, a South African-born chef who has made a name for himself in the past two years, and who currently owns El Jard\u00edn de Adobe, his comedor at Adobe Guadalupe winery in the Guadalupe Valley. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"ryan\"\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cThat\u2019s a question everyone is asking. This is a very young cuisine. I think that if you\u2019re using an ingredient from Baja as the base and you add local flavors, you can do whatever you want however you want,\u201d says Steyn. <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0You\u2019ll surely find lemons, olive oil, wine and seafood in Steyn\u2019s asador, which has been the start for many original and attractive dishes, both presentation and flavor-wise, like his signature \u2018La Bufadora<\/em>\u2019 dish, named for Ensenada\u2019s well known marine geyser. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0Whatever the academic answer may be, it\u2019s a lot better to find out the answer to this intriguing question by treating yourself to the taste of Baja cuisine, right now. And don\u2019t forget the wine. Cheers!<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Five leading Baja chefs spell out the essence of Baja Cuisine for us.   by Erick Falc\u00f3n | Todos Santos   \u00a0 \u00a0Despite a few years have passed since Baja Cuisine\u2019s rise to international culinary fame, few have an idea of how to define it.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0It is a young cuisine, of course, some say, unlike Oaxaca or Michoac\u00e1n’s millenary gastronomic traditions.\u00a0You may hear \u2018Baja Med\u2019 a lot in culinary festivals and magazines. \u00a0 \u00a0But although the word does allude […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3096,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[998,48,1126,1131,1133,532,556,1132,555,38,947,39,586,126,257,643,37,392,40,959,172],"yoast_head":"\nThe evolution of Baja Cuisine: 5 chefs, 5 visions — Revista Todos Santos<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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